ALASKA EXPEDITION 2010- RUTH GLACIER: INTRODUCTION BRETHREN OF THE COAST, TALES OF THE GORGE

The rarely seen East aspect of Huntington. Photo~Mark Allen

Expedition Location: Ruth and Tokasitna Glaciers - Central Alaska Range, Alaska USA

Date of Expedition: March 26 - April 20

Expedition Climbers: Mark Allen, Graham Zimmerman

Contact: Climb@markallenalpine.com The sentinel guard to the Lower Ruth Gorge Wake, Johnson, Grossvanor ~Photo Mark Allen

In March, we will embark on a four-week expedition to the Central Alaska Range to establish two new routes on major peaks. Our team plans to climb with style and creativity and is also possessed of a variety of practiced multimedia skills to document and promote the expedition. We therefore seek symbiotic partnerships with outfitters who may value our promotion and climbing skills as well as our commitment to this project; we are deeply motivated towards making this significant contribution to our personal achievements and to Alaskan climbing history. We invite you to read on and consider being a partner in our success.

THE PROJECT
The Ruth andTokasitna Glaciers in the Central Alaska Range have been in the center of alpinist activity in North America. Within this venue we will pursue mixed alpine objectives while establishing new routes on major peaks. We are dedicating four weeks during prime alpine season to accomplish two target objectives: Routes in the Lower Ruth Gorge and the Southeast Face of Mt Huntington.

SOUTHEAST FACE AND UPPER SOUTH FACE OF MT. HUNTINGTON
Our prime objective: This face has been visited once in 1979 during the pioneer FA of the South Face V AI 4 of Huntington by Jay-Kerr-Thomas-Woolums. Recently Tackle-Smith established a far more technical line to the lower portions of the mountain Prizefight V 5.9R, WI4+/5 M6, 18+ pitches up the Southeast Face to the summit of the South Peak, falling short of the summit, and descended the lower sections of the 1979 South Face route. Southeast Face of the South Peak of Huntington still has serious potential for new routes [as confirmed by Jack Tackle]. At minimum we intend to FA link Prizefight V 5.9R, WI4+/5 M6 Smith-Tackle 2008 with the South Face V AI 4-1979 completing the second ascent of both lines and tagging the summit. We will not exclude any chance for a new independent line.

The East Face of Mt. Dickey. One of the many objectives to be looked at for possible climbing during our time there this year. Photo~Mark Allen

EAST FACES OF SURROUNDING PEAKS

As the largest face in the Ruth Gorge the 5000ft East face has for a long time been synonymous with hard technical alpinism. During this early season trip we intend to explore new terrain on the East Faces of the Ruth Gorge. A careful watch will be kept for other routes forming on surrounding peaks (Wake, Bradley, ect.), which may be unique for the early season.

OUR SPONSORS

BLACK DIAMOND, Outdoor Research, FEATHERED FRIENDS, New England Ropes MAXIM, and JUBLO are our sponsoring outfitters for this climb. They are providing us will the gear that we will be paramount during our ascents. Please go to OUR SPONSORS and be linked to their products.