ALASKA EXPEDITION 2010- RUTH GLACIER: March 2010

DISPATCH 2 - TALKEETNA AK

DISPATCHES

March 28th : Dispatch Two

After running around feverishly in Anchorage (getting a flat in Joes Stock’s civic) and getting all of our kit, we have now made it to snowy Talkeetna via the graces of longtime K2 pilot and friend Tony Martin. After meeting with our pilot Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi, he has informed us that we will not be able to land in the Private Idaho glacial landing zone below the South Face of Huntington. Private Idaho is the location Jack Tackle and Jay Smith landed last season 09’ when establishing the first assent of the route we intend to target Prizefight -V WI5 M5 R completing a line to the subsidiary summit of the Southeast Face below the South face.

What this means to our expedition is that we will forgo getting dropped with a base camp at the base of Huntington South or East faces as previously planed. Now we are focusing on digging in a camp the Great Ruth Gorge within range of dozens of climbing objective. The conditions and temperatures are good for climbing here right now making potential for getting things done. Paul Roderick will be landing us with 350lbs of food and gear in a large corridor positioned just between Bradley and Dickey. From hear we will travel the strip of the Ruth Glacier and window shop for a route coming up with a strategy for climbing a peak.

We also have been informed that we are the only party in the Alaska Range right now to the parks knowledge. This will change soon enough but for now Graham and I have the Alaska Range to ourselves which is a rare experience.

As for South Face of Huntington there has been little activity there because of the very problem of access. We are in good position to evaluate attempting the 1979 approach, which would entail several kilometers of glacier travel, and a few ice falls, a full scale AK mountaineering multi-day approach. We are hoping to gain more information from the flight into the area. More than anything Graham and I are ready to go climbing enjoy all the highs and lows of climbing here in this majestic place.
Wish us luck and stay tuned.

VIDEO-DISPATCH 1 - SEATTLE WA

Mark And Graham will be giving dispatch updates from the Glacier after we fly in on the 28th of March. They will be updating the trip every 3-4 days relaying the details of there climbing. More Later.

ALASKA RANGE, RUTH EXPEDITION 2010 INTRO from Mark Allen on Vimeo.

ALASKA RANGE, RUTH EXPEDITION 2010 - POST #1 (SEATTLE PREP) from Mark Allen on Vimeo.

Team Profile

Graham Zimmerman ~ 23 North Cascades, WA YOSAR

As the youngest member of YOSAR team, Graham is already making a strong mark on the climbing scene at 24 years old. His ascents have included first ascents and significant repeats in Patagonia, Kyrgyzstan, New Zealand and North America. These include technical multi day alpine routes, VI walls (often in a push) and high end rock and ice routes. This will be Graham's second expedition to the Alaska Range.

Mark Allen~31 North Cascades, WA Mountain Guide

Mark is a Full AMGA Aspirant, AMGA Certified Rock, and Ski Mountaineering Guide. Mark has many published first ascents in the North Cascades in the Alpine. His climbing expeditions have taken him to Patagonia Argentina and Chile, Central Range Alaska, New Zealand, China, Nepal, and Antarctica. Mark is a full-time Lead Guide for International Mountain Guides and North Cascades Mountain Guides in Washington and Ski Mountaineering guide operating out of the San Juans Colorado. Mark is becoming a fixture in the industry after 10 years of dedication. This is Mark’s 2nd consecutive personal expedition into the Ruth Gorge after and his 10th AK

INTRODUCTION BRETHREN OF THE COAST, TALES OF THE GORGE

The rarely seen East aspect of Huntington. Photo~Mark Allen

Expedition Location: Ruth and Tokasitna Glaciers - Central Alaska Range, Alaska USA

Date of Expedition: March 26 - April 20

Expedition Climbers: Mark Allen, Graham Zimmerman

Contact: Climb@markallenalpine.com The sentinel guard to the Lower Ruth Gorge Wake, Johnson, Grossvanor ~Photo Mark Allen

In March, we will embark on a four-week expedition to the Central Alaska Range to establish two new routes on major peaks. Our team plans to climb with style and creativity and is also possessed of a variety of practiced multimedia skills to document and promote the expedition. We therefore seek symbiotic partnerships with outfitters who may value our promotion and climbing skills as well as our commitment to this project; we are deeply motivated towards making this significant contribution to our personal achievements and to Alaskan climbing history. We invite you to read on and consider being a partner in our success.

THE PROJECT
The Ruth andTokasitna Glaciers in the Central Alaska Range have been in the center of alpinist activity in North America. Within this venue we will pursue mixed alpine objectives while establishing new routes on major peaks. We are dedicating four weeks during prime alpine season to accomplish two target objectives: Routes in the Lower Ruth Gorge and the Southeast Face of Mt Huntington.

SOUTHEAST FACE AND UPPER SOUTH FACE OF MT. HUNTINGTON
Our prime objective: This face has been visited once in 1979 during the pioneer FA of the South Face V AI 4 of Huntington by Jay-Kerr-Thomas-Woolums. Recently Tackle-Smith established a far more technical line to the lower portions of the mountain Prizefight V 5.9R, WI4+/5 M6, 18+ pitches up the Southeast Face to the summit of the South Peak, falling short of the summit, and descended the lower sections of the 1979 South Face route. Southeast Face of the South Peak of Huntington still has serious potential for new routes [as confirmed by Jack Tackle]. At minimum we intend to FA link Prizefight V 5.9R, WI4+/5 M6 Smith-Tackle 2008 with the South Face V AI 4-1979 completing the second ascent of both lines and tagging the summit. We will not exclude any chance for a new independent line.

The East Face of Mt. Dickey. One of the many objectives to be looked at for possible climbing during our time there this year. Photo~Mark Allen

EAST FACES OF SURROUNDING PEAKS

As the largest face in the Ruth Gorge the 5000ft East face has for a long time been synonymous with hard technical alpinism. During this early season trip we intend to explore new terrain on the East Faces of the Ruth Gorge. A careful watch will be kept for other routes forming on surrounding peaks (Wake, Bradley, ect.), which may be unique for the early season.

OUR SPONSORS

BLACK DIAMOND, Outdoor Research, FEATHERED FRIENDS, New England Ropes MAXIM, and JUBLO are our sponsoring outfitters for this climb. They are providing us will the gear that we will be paramount during our ascents. Please go to OUR SPONSORS and be linked to their products.